Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

Recorded at several dry zone wetlands, most notably a flock of 50 at Hambantota.

Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis

Pelicans never disappoint. Plentiful at Bundala (40) and Yala (10). A small flock (18) was also seen flying over Bellanawila-Attidiya, and odd birds were often spotted high in the air riding the thermals.

Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger

Abundant and seen most days in wetlands, rivers, paddyfields, lagoons, etc.

Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis

Very common at coastal locations and the more extensive wetlands.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Only recorded once at a tank near Polonnaruwa.

Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster

Seen in very small numbers at most dry zone wetland sites. Easily identified in the water buy the usual snake impressions, but can look rather extraordinary when seen perched in a tree.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Very common and seen creeping around paddyfields suspiciously on most days.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Commonly seen throughout the dry zone. Birds are distinctly paler than those of this species seen in Europe.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

Seen at several wetland sites, notably Bundala (6) and Bellanawila-Attidiya (4). When seen in good light, this is a very sophisticatedly plumaged bird.

Intermediate Egret Mesophoyx intermedia

Seen in paddyfields and wetlands on most days. The rarest of the egrets (but by no means rare). The greatest numbers were observed in Bundala and Yala.

Great Egret Ardea alba

Very common and seen almost every day. The big white ships of the paddyfields.

Cattle Egret Bubuculus ibis

Abundant, with huge flocks seen flying at dusk to enormous roosting locations. Also seen draped lovingly over Water Buffaloes, straight from a BBC2 Sunday night wildlife doco.

Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii

The "paddybird". The first bird observed on touchdown, and abundant from then until takeoff. Mostly rather drab and brown in appearance, but a male in full breeding plumage has a most exotic livery and stunning white wings in flight.

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

Seen on five days and easily overlooked. A roost of 20 birds was seen near Hambantota, and a smaller roost at Bellanawila-Attidiya. Professional hide-and-seek players.

Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis

Glimpsed twice in typical escape mode, at Hambantota and Muthurajawela.

Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus

One bird flushed at Muthurajawela giving the usual rear view of disappearing bittern.

Black Bittern Ixobrychus flavicollis

One bird at Hambantota being cryptic and elusive, three birds at Bellanawila-Attidiya being hurtled from their ejector seats, and a further bird at Bellanawila-Attidiya sitting on top of a bush at midday and being so noticeable and obvious that we all had trouble identifying it.

Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala

A beautiful stork which was common at Bundala (50), and seen at Yala (8), Uda Walawe and Bellanawila-Attidiya. Did I say this is a beautiful stork? Ah yes - but there is no harm in emphasising the point.

Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans

The most widespread stork and seen on half the days, but never in large numbers, and often alone. Again, most numerous at Bundala (10) and seen flying each morning at Kandalama. In flight the wings notably appear to be half black and half white.

Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus

Single or pairs of birds seen on five days, all in the air, with the best views had at Kandalama and en route to Polonnaruwa.

Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus

Recorded just twice by (other!) members of the group in the Hambantota district.

Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus

Several flocks seen in suitable habitats, notably en route to Polonnaruwa (10), Bundala (30) and Yala (50).

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

Very close views of around 30 birds at Bundala, and a further 5 seen at Yala.

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber

Enormous flocks seen at Bundala. We conservatively estimated the total numbers to be around 1000. One distant "white cliff" on the other side of a huge lagoon revealed itself through optics to be wall-to-wall flamingo. On another occasion a huge flock was observed in flight on the other side of the lagoon, a seemingly endless smattering of pinkish white dots in the air.

Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica

Seen in small flocks at most wetland locations, notably at Muthurajawela. These birds can confuse in flight as not only are they making a bizarre noise, but their coloration somewhat resembles Yellow Bittern. So ook for flocks of whistling Yellow Bitterns and you'll be right…

Cotton Pygmy-goose Nettapus coromandelianus

This pretty little pond dweller was only seen twice at dry zone wetlands, en route to Polonnaruwa (2) and at Sigiriya (6). Toy birds.

Garganey Anas querquedula

The only true duck we saw in a land seemingly devoid of them. Twenty birds were seen around Bundala and one at Yala.

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus

One seen from the bus parachuting down into a valley in the hills, and two seen perched on the tops of dead trees in Uda Walawe.

Black Kite Milvus migrans

Single birds were seen on each of the first three days, and then the supply seemed to dry up. Not as common a bird as was expected.

Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus

Very common near the coast, and whenever areas of low country wetland were encountered (which is just about anywhere!) Seen several times surprisingly far offshore.

White-bellied Sea-eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster

Most common at Kandalama, where it was seen every day. Single birds seen at Bundala and Yala.

Grey-headed Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus

There was a healthy discussion at Kandalama as to whether distantly seen eagles were imatures of this species, but there was no doubt about the sighting of an adult bird on top of a dead tree at Yala. One was also recorded at Uda Walawe.

Crested Serpent-eagle Spilornis cheela

Isolated birds seen most days, both perched and in flight. A striking raptor with distinct underwing pattern and a very strange reptilian head.

Crested Goshawk Accipter trivirgatus

One birds seen near in the hill country, hunting low over a small wood just up from the Tea Factory Hotel, Nuwara Eliya. Presumably hunting a decent cuppa…

Shikra Accipter badius

The common sparrowhawk of Sri Lanka, and seen on half the days, (maximum 4 around Bundala).

Besra Accipter virgatus

Several of the group reported seeing a Besra near Hambantota. It is also possible that several others of our "Shikras" were "Besras". Confused? We certainly were…

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo

A raptor that passed overhead at Bundala looked suspiciously like this species.

Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis

We had two magnificent lunchtime views of this bird. The first at a hill country resthouse en route to Nuwara Eliya, where it did a low fly past to closely inspect our food (anorexic Sri Lankan omlette and eight chips), and the second at Ella Gap where it chose to scan the meals of the entire valley from a safer distance (all-you-can-eat curry and rice, followed by sliced pineapple). This is one of those majestic eagles that only likes to grace the stage if the scenery is suitably dramatic.

Rufous-bellied Eagle Hieraaetus kienerii

One bird seen circling above Sinharaja, showing its very distinctive breast colouration. No doubt wondering how many endemics it was going to eat today.

Changeable Hawk-eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus

Seen on most days, with excellent views of a begging juvenile at Kandalama, and a peak of 8 birds seen at Uda Walawe. Seems to fill the "Buzzard" niche in being widespread and easily seen.

Mountain Hawk-eagle Spizaetus nipalensis

One bird seen flying over Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya, being hotly pursued by a large flock of adoring House Crows.

Common Kestrel Flaco tinnunculus

Until Jim saw one from the bus on the 3^rd, the only bird seen had been from the transfer bus on disembarking at the airport. Three records in total.

Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus

One seen from the bus in the hills.

*Sri Lanka Spurfowl Galloperdix bicalcarata

One bird heard calling at Sinharaja. I assume that this is a common call of the early morning there, but seeing the bird is an entirely different matter.

*Sri Lanka Junglefowl Gallus lafayetii

The cockerels are really stunning, and their coughing wattlebird like call was the common jungle noise at Kandalama. We finally got a good look at one on the day we were leaving, right next to our bedroom door (the Kandalama Hotel is just a birding paradise!) Also heard at Bundala, and seen well at Yala (5) and Uda Walawe.

Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus

These are truly crazy birds, and never look plausible when sitting up in trees. "Come down number eleven, your time is up!" Nonetheless, that is what they do spend a fair bit of time doing. Common and very visible at Bundala, Yala and Uda Walawe, but not recorded anywhere else.

Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator

Good views of this buttonquail were had at Kandalama (where they struck me as rather dumpy) and glimpses at Hambantota (where they seemed diminutive). They were also reported as common from those on the lead jeep at Uda Walawe (there are some advantages to going first).

Slaty-breasted Rail Gallirallus striatus

Just one bird seen pottering down a narrow reed covered track at Muthurajawela.

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus

Common and seen almost every day in reasonable numbers.

Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio

Common in all suitable habitat (namely big lily covered lagoons and marshes). The largest numbers were observed near Hambantota (20), Bundala and Bellanawila-Attidiya. They seem to adopt the surprising habit of occasionally perching on the tops of bushes where they look, in all honesty, quite ridiculous!

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

Not as common as the Purple Topofbushhen, but seen at four wetlands, with the top moorhen spot (for those that care) being Bundala (10).

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus

Sensational birds, which were common anywhere there were enough lily pads to stroll on. Also seen quite often in flight, at which they are surprisingly graceful performers, tails streaming behind.

Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva

One bird, seen at Yala.

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola

One en route to Polonnaruwa, 2 at Bundala, one at Yala.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

Just one recorded at Yala, but I'm sure there were plenty more out there.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

Recorded in fairly healthy numbers at all of Bundala, Yala and Hambantota.

Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus

The wee ones. Well over a hundred seen at Bundala, and just one lonely bird seen at Yala.

Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii

The slightly less wee ones. About 50 at Bundala, and one at Hambantota.

Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus

Before having seen scores of Red-wattled Lapwings, I had expected this species to be equally common. But as the trip dragged on I became anxious that we might not see it at all. However, down in the SE coastal parks the Lapwing people were finally appeased. Only 11 birds recorded in total though, 5 at Bundala, 2 at Yala, and 2 sleeping outside our Hambantota hotel room.

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus

Very common and seen almost every day. And nobody was complaining about that… except when they start screaming in the middle of the night…

Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura

Three at Bundala and two at Yala. Quite visible for snipes.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa

Seen at Bundala and Yala, with the birds at Bundala being both more numerous and colourful.

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata

A small flock of ten seen offshore at Hambantota, but not seen elsewhere.

Common Redshank Tringa totanus

Common at both the "ala"s and the "ota".

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis

Seen in small numbers at the "ala"s and the "ota".

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

Seen in small numbers at the "ala"s. One of the birds at the Bund "ala" was so fat that Jim was convinced it was something more interesting, but then the jeep lurched off again and we left it in peace, whatever it was.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

Seen in small numbers at guess which two locations?

Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos

These birds have a habit of turning up in all sorts of wet patches, and were recorded on most days in some suitable ditch, puddle, sewage outlet, lagoon margin etc etc.

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres

Three birds at Bundala.

Sanderling Calidris alba

Eight birds seen at Bundala.

Little Stint Calidris minuta

Lots at Bundala, with probably Long-toed Temminck's hiding among them, but the light was not ideal for stint leg watches.

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

Around the 50 mark at Bundala, including one bird in full breeding regalia.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

Very common in suitably stilty places in the SE, and breeding outside our hotel at Hambantota. I'm always terrified their legs are just going to snap in two. Also seen flying over at Muthurajawela.

Great Thick-knee Burhinus recurvirostris

I was most pleased to discover that our hotel at Hambantota had a resident breeding pair on the beach - and they didn't even charge extra for them. Ten others seen at Bundala and a couple at Yala.

Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus

Surprisingly uncommon, but double figures scraped at both Bundala and Yala.

Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica

Fairly common at Bundala.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia

Fairly common at Bundala, with isolated records at Yala and Negombo.

Great Crested Tern Sterna bergii

A couple at Bundala, and seen offshore from Negombo.

Little Tern Sterna albifrons

A few seen at Bundala and Hambantota. If any of them had black shafts then I didn't notice.

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hydridus

An abundant tern, seen at most wetland locations and offshore. Seemed to be the "if in doubt it's a Whiskered Tern" species.

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus

A large flock (40) seen at Bundala, and then an enormous flock (over 100) seen moving along the coast at Hambantota - presumably migrating.

Rock Dove Columba Livia

Well, it's here to make up the numbers really. Feral members of this species were seen on most days in suitable urban locations.

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis

Abundant bird in all habitats and spotted regularly by Dorothy from the bus.

Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

A feral species that is apparently on the increase. We caught up with this bird in the Little England of Sri Lanka: Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya.

Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica

One observed at Kandalama and then two waddled in front of our jeep on the way in to Sinharaja, while I seethed with rage as they were holding up our dawn (sic) arrival.

Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicincta

A very nice little plump pigeon that proved easy to see and fairly common at Bundala, Yala and Uda Walawe.

Pompadour Green Pigeon Treron pompadora

A handsome pigeon with maroon wings. Only recorded at Kandalama, where a six pack, like most of the Kandalama birds, was observed from the hotel balcony.

Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea

Sounds a bit pompous? Well it looks pompous too. A big woodpigeon, recorded at Kandalama (4), Hambantota region (5), Uda Walawe (2) and distantly at Sinharaja (or was it a Sri Lankan Woodpigeon… we'll never know..)

*Sri Lanka Hanging Parrot Loriculus beryllinus

Fairly common, but often hard to see well. We first recorded them in Udawattakele and Peradeniya, but they were best seen and most plentiful around Ratnaloka. Tiny restless lorikeets.

Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria

A huge parakeet regularly seen in flight, but never at rest. I have a theory that they just fly around continuously until they drop dead of exhaustion, so perhaps I should have searched the ground more systematically.

Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula kramerii

Abundant, and seen most days in considerable numbers, screaming their heads off. The "default parakeet".

Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala

A small lone parakeet flying over at Hambantota and making a peculiarly quiet single note nasal "waah" was assumed to be this species. Either that or it was a Rose-ringed Parakeet whose batteries were about to expire. Not noted elsewhere.

*Layard's Parakeet Psittacula calthropae

The endemic parakeet, and the common parakeet at Sinharaja (about 6 flying over).

Pied Cuckoo Oxylophus jacobinus

Nice big bird and unmistakable, except when you see an immature bird on your first day in bad light while you are still a bit jet-lagged. Seen at Kandalama, Kandy, Bundala, Uda Walawe and six in the coastal heath at Hambantota. No Pied Cuckoo shortage in Sri Lanka then.

Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus

Seen well just once at Kandalama. I suspect that glimpses of cuckoos from various jeeps are most likely to have been this species which I am convinced we under-recorded.

Grey-bellied Cuckoo Cacomantis passerinus

Seen only once at Kandalama, and never again. It's a bit of a boring cuckoo though.

Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris

Someone in the group recorded one at Bundala.

Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea

Seen, or to be more precise heard, every day. The Koel at Brown's Beach Hotel Negombo insisted on calling from about 3am in the morning which was all very well and nice but…

Blue-faced Malkoha Phaenicophaeus viridirostris

Not the most stunning member of the malkoha brethren, but a fairly visible and common one. Peak numbers were seen at Kandalama (five a day), but also seen at Bundala and Yala.

Sirkeer Malkoha Phaenicophaeus leschenaultii

Yes Sirkeer! An excellent pair of brown malkohas seen in the grassland at Uda Walawe. This was a good sighting I think, especially as the birds obligingly perched up on a bush and allowed us to have a bit of a gander at them.

*Red-faced Malkoha Phaenicophaeus pyrrhocephalus

Tantarra… the bird everyone wants to see, mainly because it is on the cover of Kotagama's field guide. Completely sexy bird, whose red eye patch looks rather unnatural and more than a bit comical. Two birds were seen just down from the Research Station in Sinharaja, and all the blunders of the day were temporarily forgiven and forgotten. Well spotted, Michael.

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis

What looks more ridiculous than a Greater Coucal perched in a tree? A Greater Coucal sitting on your roof. What looks more ridiculous than a Greater Coucal sitting on your roof? A Greater Coucal flying over the road. What looks more ridiculous than a Greater Coucal flying over the road? Four Greater Coucals in a mini… etc.. OK - nothing like throttling a joke to death. Very silly birds that God just shouldn't have created. Common and seen regularly from the bus.

Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena

Expected to be our common owl, it was not recorded until one of the last nights, when James went out for a late night fag and heard one from his balcony at Ratnaloka. It might be bad for the health, but it's apparently good for the bird list.

Brown Fish-owl Ketupa zeylonensis

A big owl spotlit from the hotel balcony at Kandalama could only have been this species. Sadly the binocular boys arrived too late to get what would have been "crippling views".

Jungle Owlet Glaucidium radiatum

Heard calling in the middle of the day from the depths of Sinharaja.

Indian Nightjar Caprimulgus asiaticus

Seen and heard at Kandalama, making a distinctive monotonous low hollow descending double whistle. Seen and heard again at Hambantota, making a noise like a ping pong ball bouncing on a table. What other vocal stunts is this bird capable of?

Indian Swiftlet Collocalia unicolor

Fairly common and usually found in flocks of considerable size. Although not recorded every day of the trip, I think this bird was rather overlooked in our daily counts.

Asian Palm-swift Cypsiurus balasiensis

A common swift, seen in small flocks on each day spent in the dry zone. Clearly identifiable by its long sharp tail.

Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba

One bird recorded by Jim among House Swifts at Hakgala Gardens.

House Swift Apus affinis

Very common in urban and rural areas. An enormous flock was wheeling and reeling over Sigiriya.

Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata

A beautiful shapely bird, looking rather like a small arrowhead in the air, with very long narrow wings and a sharp pointed tail. Seen hawking in typical flycatcher like manner from a tree on the cliff-face at Kandalama, and subsequently recorded in small numbers at Yala, Uda Walawe and Ratnaloka. A juvenile bird seen by some at Yala was apparently so well camouflaged at the nest that Anne Marie remains unconvinced it was a bird!

Malabar Trogon Harpactes fasciatus

Easily overlooked, so easily that we umm err didn't exactly see any. Heard calling at Sinharaja.

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis

Certainly common, with single or pairs of birds recorded on most days wetland sites were visited. Sri Lankan birds seem a much more brilliant blue than those in Western Europe, and we were delighted to watch one hovering over a pond at Sigiriya.

Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis

The greatly beaked one was seen by the edge of a small lagoon en route to Polonnaruwa and at a bridge over a river at what George tried to persuade us was the "geographical heart of the country".

White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis

Yes yes yes .. every day on every wire next to every road in every habitat. And what a pretty bird to have so common. It doesn't stop the park guides creeping up to them in the jeeps and showing you "kingfisher" with great pride, which suggests that the average traveller passes hundreds of them on the way in, but only when entering the parks actually decides to notice them.

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

A big kingfisher, and quite majestic in the air, where the pied plumage makes the bird resemble an enormous moth. One bird seen at Kandalama, 6 in Bundala, and then isolated records from the bus and from Bellanawila-Attidiya.

Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis

A very common and attractive bee-eater in low country dry zone habitats. Small and very green, with an iridescent blue throat and a noticeable chestnut cap. An overly spotted bird by trackers in the parks.

Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippnus

A huge stunning bee-eater with dramatic trailing tail feathers. A pair noted on the road to Polonnaruwa, another pair at Yala, and half a dozen sitting photogenically next to the road in Uda Walawe.

Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti

Yet another attractive bee-eater, not seen until the hills when it took over from Green as the common wire occupant. Common in the SE at Hambantota, Bundala and Yala, and then the supply seemed to dry up again.

Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis

A big roller seen most days "on the wires". Peak numbers were 6 at Polonnaruwa and 6 driving from the hills to Hambantota.

Common Hoopoe Upupa epops

It's been a long time coming, but they say that you never forget your first Hoopoe.. So there it was, sitting on "the big tree'" next to the top birding balcony at Kanadalma, and then it was gone, as suddenly as it appeared. Three birds were also seen in Yala, including one that sat down in front of our jeeps and played a dangerous game of "chicken" (or should that be "junglefowl"?)

*Sri Lanka Grey Hornbill Ocyceros gingalensis

What do we want? Hornbills! When do we want them? As often as possible! I think Hornbills are just magnificent and am thinking of refusing to go on holiday to any country that doesn't offer them as part of the indigenous avifauna. The Sri Lanka Grey offers all the usual attributes: big, hooter extraordinaire, and of course comical in the extreme. Actually this hornbill is quite a slim bird, which makes the bill even more improbable than normal. Surprisingly, and disappointingly, it was only seen at Kandalama, where a family party of three were seen on several days.

Malabar Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros coronatus

A more conventionally enormous and glorious hornbill, glimpsed in a tree near Kandalama, seen flitting through the canopy at Yala, and then more visibly on the top of a dead tree in Uda Walawe. We suspect the bird in Uda Walawe was defending a nesting hollow.

Brown-headed Barbet Megalaima zeylanica

Kerronk kerronk kerronk kerronk …. A big headed barbet (and by no means the most attractive member of the family) whose call was probably the definitive Sri Lankan jungle noise. The most amusing aspect of the Brown-headed Barbet call is its kookaburra-esque cranking up process, as it builds up the reserves for an extended period of kerronking. It would be fair to say that this bird was very common in all places that offered vegetation greater than about head height. Kerronk kerronk kerronk kerronk..

*Yellow-fronted Barbet Megalaima flavifrons

Similar, but considerably more attractive than the Brown-headed, the Yellow-fronted Barbet was common, but only at higher elevations. Thus it was first heard on the way to Kandy, and was common at Udawattakele, was heard at Hakgala, but then not again until Sinharaja. It also cranks up like the Brown-headed, but then has a more melodic kerronk, maybe more of a konk really, which was very distinctive.

*Crimson-fronted Barbet Megalaima rubricapilla

The Sri Lankan endemic subspecies "Ceylon Small Barbet" is often regarded as a full species (for example in [7]). Somewhat similar to the Coppersmith, the Crimson-fronted Barbet did not seem to be that common, or was maybe just quieter, than the other barbets on the island. It was heard every day until Hakgala, but seen only at Kandalama and Kandy. The call is similar in tone to Coppersmiths, but irregularly sounded in bursts of four notes (pum-pum-pum-pum…etc)

Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemecephala

A common barbet in dry zone low country habitats, but apparently absent in the hills and the wet zone. This barbet was very vocal and seen each day at Kandalama, at Polonnaruwa, and in Uda Walawe. A very smart little barbet, but the most monotonous of the four Sri Lankan species, just pumming steadily and incessantly. Another great jungle sound.

Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos nanus

Some lucky people saw one in Yala, and some other lucky people saw one in Uda Walawe, and maybe some lucky people saw both, but some other unlucky people saw neither of them!

Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense

This very attractive woodpecker was the most commonly observed woodpecker, although was most often seen as a vanishing flash of scarlet. Peak numbers were 4 at Kandalama, but it was also recorded at Polonnaruwa and Hambantota.

Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus

Just one positive identification of this big woodpecker at Sinharaja.

Indian Pitta Pitta brachyura

We were pleased to see one on the entrance road to Kandalama, and then another one leaving the next day. And then one tried to break into Jim and Mike's room at the hotel, and then two were seen at Victoria Gardens, and another at Bundala, and another at Yala …. So I guess as pittas go, this is not as elusive a bird as you might expect!

Rufous-winged Bushlark Mirafra assamica

A very common small brown bird in open dry zone country. It was quite abundant in jungle clearings at Kandalama, and common at the three dry zone parks in the SE. Has an interesting insect like call, runs on the ground like a quail, and has a parachute flight display.

Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula

Just two birds were seen at Bundala. Almost certainly overlooked elsewhere.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica

The common swallow and recorded on most days, often in large flocks.

Hill Swallow Hirundo dumicola

Rather easily mistaken at rest for the Barn Swallow, but in flight more reminiscent of a martin than a swallow. A high country bird, seen around the tea plantations (and the Tea Factory) Hotel) at Nurawa Eliya, and at Ella Gap.

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica

The common swallow around Kandalama, but otherwise only recorded in dribs and drabs in the few wet zone locations we visited.

Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus

A good field guide for Sri Lanka will be welcome when it arrives (soon I gather). We had great difficulty identifying the shrikes on first arrival, but in hindsight I reckon that almost all the sightings were of this species, despite some fanciful attempts to call them Long-tailed Shrikes. Many of the birds appeared to show an amount of grey on the backs, which led to the main confusion. Brown Shrikes were seen most days, with the peak recordings from Uda Walawe (8).

Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus

A very attractive and distinctive oriole, with a typically resonant and melodic oriole call. Common at Kandalama, and recorded as far as Kandy, but only again at Yala and Sinharaja.

White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens

This was the common drongo in Sri Lanka, but was by no means as common as expected (recorded on approximately half the days). Only in the wet zone did it start to become a regular "wire" bird, and we saw around ten on each of the two days we drove through wet zone habitats.

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus

Just two birds recorded by observant members of the party, the first in Udawattakele and the second by Joan in Sinharaja. I had expected this to be a commoner species.

Ashy Wood Swallow-shrike Artamus fuscus

I'm not sure why this bird has such a contrived common name (Ashy Woodswallow seems quite adequate to me). This species was seen on just two occasions, with 4 seen at the "geographical heart of the country" and another 2 at Bundala.

*Sri Lanka White-faced Starling Sturnus senex

Well, we managed to miss some of the commoner endemic species, and rather incredibly saw this one in our short trip to Sinharaja. Just at the official reserve entrance (about half way to the research station) we saw a bird flying swiftly and directly over a clearing. "It looks like a starling, it has a dark back, oh - and it's got a white face…." It was a brief view, but then sometimes that is all you need - a bit of quick binocular work, and a slightly greater piece of outrageous fortune…

Brahiminy Starling Sturnus pagodarum

One bird was seen in the coastal heath at Hambantota by Doreen and James, on the day that they decided to tactically opt out of the general program. It most rudely failed to appear on any of the subsequent mornings suggesting perhaps that it was either migrating through, or that they deliberately caught it and hid it in their room.

(Rosy Starling) Sturnus roseus

There was an unconfirmed sighting from the back of the bus of 4 starlings. This is the only candidate species, but would be a very rare record unless we were present during an invasion. It remains bracketed for this reason. What else would look vaguely like a starling? Baya Weaver?

Common Mynah Acridotheres tristis

One or two birds observed approximately every 5 minutes on every day of the entire trip. Well, maybe every hour...

Hill Mynah Gracula religiosa

A bunch of ten were seen and very much heard at Udawattakele Sanctuary, but this bird was only seen again at Peradeniya Botanical Gardens. Our guide at Sinharaja pointed out the call, but I rather suspect that the Sinharaja bird was in fact the Sri Lanka Mynah, which we otherwise failed to record. We'll have to consider it one that got away.

House Crow Corvus splendens

Ubiquitous wherever homo sapiens is likewise, even to the point of replacing gulls as the common birds when land meets sea.

Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos

The common crow of rural areas and seen each day in considerable numbers.

Large Cuckoo-shrike Coracina macei

Very few of these birds were observed, and in most cases were flying overhead and were identified by their cryptic metallic cry. Two records from Kandalama, and one each from Kandy and Bundala.

Black-headed Cuckoo-shrike Coracina melanoptera

This bird was only seen in the scrub jungle at Kandalama, where a handsome male was seen on two days, and one female observed quietly foraging in a dense thicket.

Common Wood-shrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus

We recorded this bird very definitely in Sinharaja, where it was seen a few times sitting very silently in the midst of medium height forest growth. There is a definite suspicion that we misidentified other previous sightings as Brown Shrikes (careless I know.. but…)

Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus

A very dainty minivet that was seen most days at Kandalama, and at Sinharaja. The male have ashy heads and the partly coloured breast is distinctly orange.

Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus

Noticeably larger than the last species, this minivet was only seen several times at Sinharaja, where it's glow-in-the-dark plumage made it visible from a considerable distance away.

Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus

A surprisingly elusive little flycatcher which was only encountered once at Hakgala. We saw around 6 very active birds, which appeared to be breeding in a cool gully near the entrance to the gardens.

Common Iora Aegithina tiphia

A common bird that was seen on most days, except those in the high hill country. The white wing bar is very noticeable in flight.

Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis

This species was seen most commonly at Kandalama, but was also probably recorded at Sinharaja. The birds at Sinharaja were foraging very high on a tall tree and seemed to have yellow enough crowns to possibly be the rarer Golden-fronted Leafbird, but neck-strain and dissolving patience prevented confirmation of this.

*Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus

One of the most strangely named birds in Sri Lanka because of course a crest is one thing it distinctly lacks. One day someone sensible will rename it the Black-capped Bulbul (in fact they already have done), and everyone will be happy. I think this bird's status is not entirely clarified yet, but is often regarded [7] as an endemic Bulbul, rather than being a race of the cousins with the real crests. Seen each day at Kandalama, where it seemed moderately common, and then again at Sinharaja.

Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer

And on the last day the great Lord Lanka said unto Adam and Eve Red-vented Bulbul, "go forth and multiply, and may your numbers spread to every corner of this island, every habitat be your domain, every bush a potential nesting site, and may your calls ring throughout the land." And so it came to pass. And there were Red-vented Bulbuls. And it was glorious unto his eyes and ears.

*Yellow-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus penicillatus

A rather chunky sagacious looking olive bulbul, with bizarre yellow tufts. We only saw this bird in the very highest areas in the hill country, with 4 birds seen at Nuwara Eliya (Victoria Park), and another pair at Hakgala.

White-browed Bulbul Pycnonotus luteolus

Described by one field guide as a "solitary skulker', I rather expected this to be a hard bird to see. However it was first up and noisiest in the dawn chorus at Kandalama, and proved common in most low country dry zone habitats. Rather a dull bird to look at, with the white brow being its saving grace.

Yellow-browed Bulbul Iole indica

A very pretty lemon and lime coloured bulbul, which was common at Sinharaja, but not seen elsewhere. As good a reason to go to Sinharaja as any.

Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus

A blueish black brightly billed bulbul (and that's easy for you to say) with a striking little mohican. This bird was common at Udawattakele, Hakgala and Sinharaja. Seemed to occur in small parties that flitted noisily about the upper canopy like parakeets, making ethereal liquid screams and generally being very awkward to observe. The bird jammed into its tiny nest at Sinharaja was more subdued, with its orange bill poking out over the rim and its crest flaring.

*Brown-capped Babbler Pellorneum fuscocapillum

A pair at Kandalama and a small party bouncing along the forest floor at Udawattakele was pretty much the entire show from this species. Rather resembling a small orangish female blackbird, and very much a soil cruiser than a bird of the branches.

Tawny-bellied Babbler Dumetia hyperythra

This is a very cute little bird, whose rusty belly and white throat make it easy to identify. It was not that easy to find however, with a group of 4 seen low in the vegetation at Kandalama, and one seen in the coastal scrub at Hambantota.

Dark-fronted Babbler Rhopocichla atriceps

A wee skulker, no other word for it. A couple were skulking at Kandalama, and a trio were skulking next to the track in Sinharaja.

Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense

A splendid little babbler with a bright yellow eye and a thick dark stubby bill, that looks quite silly. Four at Kandalama, and then six in the coastal heath at Hambantota.

*Orange-billed Babbler Turdoides rufescens

Took over from the next species at Sinharaja, where a noisy party were encountered. Amazingly they were extremely difficult to see, despite the cacophony of screams and yells, whines and screeches. Rather excellent birds, as are their more common cousins (coming up next..)

Yellow-billed Babbler Turdoides affinis

A common bird on the wire, but more normally heard before being observed. This bird can possibly makes any noise that you ask it to, but generally anything reptilian sounding, or anything that grates at the nerve chords, is probably a Yellow-billed Babbler. Almost always encountered in parties of 3 to many, they are both hyperactive and very tame, working at all levels of the canopy, but perhaps most commonly on the ground. Almost certainly the drunkards, farters, comedians and dole-bludgers of the babbler world.

Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica

A rather innocuous flycatcher that was only seen once at Sinharaja, hopping around the upper canopy in dense foliage.

Brown-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa muttui

One bird was recorded by Tony at Udawattakele Sanctuary. Presumably almost as brown and innocuous as the last species.

Kashmir Flycatcher Ficedula subrubra

Seen just the once amidst the thick of the action in Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya.

*Dull Blue Flycatcher Eumyias sordida

The only place we saw this bird was at Hakgala, where it was seemingly very common. A very subtle bird whose plumage looks rather drab in bad light, but rather exquisite when the light shines on it favourably. Tended to sit rather quietly and is probably easily overlooked.

Tickell's Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae

Mr and Mrs Tickell only put in an appearance outside our hotel room at Ratnaloka, where they hawked for insects just a few metres from our bottle of exceedingly good Sri Lankan stout.

Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culiciapa ceylonensis

A pocket sized bird who got more than a little bit angry at the fact that sixteen people were standing just below its nesting hollow. It is of course very hard to take an irate 9cm bird with any degree of seriousness, but after a minor stand-off we politely moved on. A total of six birds, not all so angry, were seen at Hakgala (which was a hotbed of flycatcher activity).

White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola

A very classical fantail in plumage and behaviour. One at Sigiriya, 3 at Yala, 2 at Uda Walawe and one from our top birding balcony at Ratnaloka.

Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi

By far the commonest flycatcher on the island and seen in small numbers on all but a few days of the trip. The peak numbers were at Yala (8), but generally anywhere with a bit of forest cover seems to keep them happy. The males are of course sensational, with their long tail streamers. All birds but one were the brown dark phase birds. A stunning white phase male was present in Victoria Park.

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis

A fairly common marsh bird, usually heard before being seen. Our best views were from the northern dry zone marshes, en route to Polonnaruwa and at Sigiriya. It was also seen at Bundala and Bellanawila, but was most common in the luxurious grasslands of Uda Walawe.

Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis

A very handsome little bird that was established to be common once we had learnt the call, which is rather like the Tailorbird's. The Ashy Prinia usually called from the depths of a thicket, but was also quite willing to climb up onto the tops of grasses and bushes to serenade willing listeners. Very common in suitable habitat, and particularly so at Bundala and Uda Walawe.

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata

One of the commonest species on the island, and recorded every day bar one, the day we went to Sinhiraja (of all places). Most easily recognised by its strange insect like call. In fact the Plain Prinia was so common that I think we may have overlooked some of the other prinia species as it became increasingly tempting to write off every prinia looking bird as this species. Some birds looked decidedly brown, while others were much paler, but all had the very notable red eye.

Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus

Surprisingly this bird was only seen on one occasion, when it popped briefly out of a reed bed on the way to Polonnaruwa.

Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius

The very cheeky and vocal Sri Lankan tailorbird species, and seen every day of the trip. Recorded increasingly regularly as we became more familiar with its extensive repertoire.

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus

Danger - you are entering the taxonomy twilight zone… Well, I'd rather leave them to it to be honest. The birds we saw were definitely the species sometimes referred to as "Yellowish-breasted Warbler", but are probably now the victims of a "lumping". Several seen engaged in the rather hopeless task of wiping out Sinharaja's insect population.

Large-billed Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus magnirostris

Close views of one bird cryptically working the canopy at Hakgala. It gave the characteristic two note call which is accurately described in one field guide as like the "squeaking of a swing".

Pied Thrush Zoothera wardii

Three birds were seen in Victoria Park, Nuwara Eliya, but boy, it was hard work. They were obviously in the process of settling for the night, and so locating them for the group in the depths of some pine trees was not as easy process… but then whoever said birding was easy?

Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula

Not at all as visible and as vocal as in Europe. Rather, the Blackbird was most commonly seen hurtling across the road between tea thickets. Only seen engaged in this noble pursuit on the two days that we spent in the highest parts of the hill country.

Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis

Very common, and seen every day. A distinctive bird with a sweet song.

White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus

A decidedly cryptic species that was heard before seen and had a habit of vanishing very soon after discovery. Our best view was in Udawattakele, but it was also present at Kandalama.

Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata

Another of the commoner Sri Lankan residents, and seen every day in good numbers. An easy bird to spot from a passing bus due to its astonishing red vent, which is visible both in flight and when the bird displays. Otherwise notable as being the only common dark bird of its size.

Pied Bush Chat Saxicola caprata

Apparently known as the "teabird", and with good reason - because that is where you will find it. Seen in the high tea country, often at the side of the road, and sometimes perched tamely on the wires.

Great Tit Parus major

We didn't go all that way to see Parus Major, but then again it is sometimes nice to have that touch of familiarity again. Grey, not Great, in this part of the world, and common in forested regions of the hills, but not noted elsewhere.

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis

A crowd pleaser, that finally turned up in Hakgala, which was just as well for Tony because he had been promising everyone that they would see it there.

Forest Wagtail Dendronanthus indicus

Two birds were first seen in the coastal heathland at Hambantota, but were not seen again until Ratnaloka, where they joined the impressive list of species seen from our balcony (although seeing the wagtails did involve leaning over it and placing unmerited faith in the architect). Someone also saw one in Negombo.

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

Seen only in the hill country, where a couple were observed in Victoria Park, and five around the tea plantations. A very British bird seen in that most British part of Sri Lanka, satisfying my sense of appropriateness.

Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus

Seemed to be the most common pipit and seen where pipits are normally seen, doing what pipits normally do, and being as awkward to identify as pipits always are. Most common in the northern dry zone, but was also a regular feature in the coastal parks of the south.

Pale-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum erythrorhynchos

The smallest bird, and perhaps the drabbest bird, seen on the island. It was common wherever there was forest of any type, and was only missed in the three coastal parks. Flowerpeckers are always rather hard to see well, but despite the presence of other species on the island, every bird that was tracked down to a perch was Pale-billed. Of course, who knows about all the flowerpeckers that were glimpsed "zitting" over…

Purple-rumped Sunbird Nectarinia zeylonica

All three of the Sri Lankan sunbird species proved to be very common. Arguably the most attractive, the Purple-rumped Sunbird was seen every day except in the highest part of the hills.

Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica

Recorded on about half of the days, and again not from the hills. Distinguished from the next species by its "normal" sunbird bill.

Loten's Sunbird Nectarinia lotenia

To put it simply, if you are looking at a purple (or brown) sunbird and are wondering if it is this species or the previous one, then you are looking at a Purple Sunbird! Loten's is a once-seen-never-forgotten bird with a quite disproportional bill that makes it look like a pygmy curlew. It was seen in small numbers at most locations, but only appeared to be very common at the last few low country wet zone locations such as Negombo and Muthurajawela.

*Sri Lanka White-eye Zosterops ceylonensis

The common white-eye at higher elevations. Forget anyone that tells you to split this from the Oriental White-eye by the degree to which the white eyering is open (or other such indeterminate nonsense). It is darker, duller and dumpier than the Oriental White-eye. In fact let's be frank - this is a little fat jabber of a white-eye.

Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus

And this is the commoner white-eye of the lower elevations, although I would not go as far as to claim it was actually common anywhere. One at Kandalama, 2 at Bundala, 1 at Uda Walawe, 2 at Ratnaloka. That's not really particularly common. More yellow and much slimmer than fatso.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Yes - it's House rather than Tree in Sri Lanka. Not recorded every day for reasons of apathy probably. No doubt a good hunt would have tracked one down somewhere.

Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar

Just one dark bird with a bright yellow cap popped out of a small reed bed as we hurtled past on one of our many jeep expeditions. That was somewhere near Hambantota.

Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus

Once again I have succeeded in spending several weeks in a country where Baya Weavers are "very common", and completely failed to see one. This time at least there was plenty evidence, with long nests dangling from the bushes, particularly in Yala. But where were the occupants? One of the other jeeps reported more success, with just one bird seen, but not well.

White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata

This was a fairly common bird at Kandalama, where one was nesting at one end of the hotel, but elsewhere it proved surprisingly elusive. Isolated observations were made from a few other locations, notably 4 at Yala.

Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata

Definitely the commonest munia and seen on half the days. Fairly sizeable flocks were seen at Hambantota feeding on the grass. They also seemed to like the roof of the Kandalama Hotel and were rarely seen away from it.

Black-headed Munia Lonchura malacca

A very attractive munia with a dark head and lower belly, and a ruddy back. One pair were seen at Sigiriya, another pair near Hambantota and 10 in the grasslands of Uda Walawe.

Pomarine Jaeger Stercorarius pomarinus

On the last day of the trip the SW monsoon decided to break and throw its worst at us, washing out the trip to Muthurajawela. However storms tend to blow good birds into shore, and a motley mystery brown bird seen from our hotel at Negombo flyng up the coast has with the benefit of the domestic library been identified as an immature Pomarine Jaeger (with a very remote chance that it was possibly Parasitic). Not apparently a particularly common sighting in Sri Lanka.